Gravy-dipped roast beef sandwiches and Moët are on the menu in this extract from our book, Brooklyn Mom & Pop.

Ever wonder what Arby’s would be like if they served food that was edible? On Mars? This Sheepshead Bay landmark has been dishing up roast beef sandwiches since 1970 with all the honky-tonk of a gigantic fast food chain, but it’s strictly one-of-a-kind. The seats are just as hard, and the worker’s uniforms as humiliating as any Burger King’s, but the food has none of the plastic 1984-ishness of the multinational competition. Spring for a 50¢ side of pickles to pep up your gravy-dipped roast beef with grilled onions; the sweet potato fries make a nice accompaniment. Marvel at the acid trip Spanish Gothic ’70s timewarp decor. The bibulous will be happy to see that unlike most fast food joints, alcohol is on the menu, so college students bring your fake id; very affordable lager and splits of unsurprisingly dodgy wine, but we can only imagine the sort of high-roller who orders the $59.99 bottle of Moët. To set the mood, check YouTube to screen one of Roll N Roaster’s ultra-cheesy vintage television ads.