Extracted from Party Of One: New York, buy yours here.

Anyone who thinks that they don’t make ’em like they used to should head this way, to an entirely new eatery that looks as if it’s always been here. Parquet floors, comfortable booths with glass dividers and above them lit signs for goods from the famous original Russ & Daughters store, still thriving a few streets away: canned sprats, kippered salmon, marble halvah, rugelach, bialys. There’s a counter around the bar at which to savour a remarkable Bloody Mary and inventive takes on Jewish-American food – the Eggs Benny has our highest recommendation. Avoid the weekend brunch melee if at all possible, it’s best Monday to Friday.